How to Store an RV for Winter: Printable Checklist

1. Water system and antifreeze

Water left in lines, the pump or the water heater can freeze, expand and crack fittings. Drain everything, then either blow the lines out with air, add RV antifreeze, or both.

Dump and flush the black tank, then dump the gray tank, at a dump station.
Drain the fresh water tank.
Turn off the water heater and let it cool. Relieve pressure with the relief valve, then remove the drain plug or anode rod and drain it.
Open the low-point drains and all faucets (hot and cold), then close them again once drained.
Put the water heater in bypass so you don't fill it with antifreeze (a water heater bypass kit if your RV doesn't have one).
Optional: blow out the lines with compressed air through the city-water inlet using a blow-out plug adapter, at the low pressure your manual allows.
Pump non-toxic RV antifreeze (pink, propylene glycol based) through the system, using the pump's winterizing valve or a pump converter kit. Never use automotive antifreeze.
Open each faucet, hot then cold, until antifreeze flows, including the outdoor shower. Flush the toilet until it appears in the bowl.
Pour a little antifreeze into each sink and shower drain to protect the P-traps, and some into the tanks for the valve seals.
Winterize the ice maker, washer, dishwasher or water filter housing as their manuals say, and remove the water filter cartridge.

2. Batteries

A battery left partly discharged for months can be damaged, and a flat lead-acid battery can freeze. Parasitic loads (detectors, clocks, stereo memory) drain it even when everything looks off.

Fully charge house and chassis batteries before storage.
Turn off the battery disconnect switch, or disconnect the negative cables.
If the space has power, keep the batteries topped up with a battery maintainer (smart trickle charger); otherwise check and recharge them every month or so.
Or remove the batteries and store them somewhere dry and above freezing, and keep them charged.
Flooded lead-acid batteries: check the electrolyte level and top up with distilled water after charging.
Lithium (LiFePO4) batteries: follow the maker's storage guidance; many must not be charged below freezing.
Remove dry-cell batteries from remotes, clocks and small devices.

3. Tires

Sitting still causes flat spots, and sunlight and ozone age the rubber even when the tread looks fine.

Inflate to the pressure on the RV's tire placard (check cold), and recheck during storage.
Park on a level, firm surface. Many owners set tires on tire pads or wood blocks wider than the tread.
Fit tire covers to block UV, especially in an uncovered space.
Chock the wheels with wheel chocks; for trailers, don't rely on the parking brake alone.
Check each tire's DOT date code and follow the tire maker's age guidance. Old tires can fail even with deep tread.
If the facility allows it, move the RV a little every couple of months to shift the load.

4. Pests and moisture

Remove all food, including sealed packages, pet food and spices.
Empty, defrost and clean the refrigerator and freezer, and prop the doors open to stop mold.
Look under the RV for gaps around plumbing, wiring and slide-outs, and seal them (steel wool or a sealant suited to the gap).
Screen the furnace, water heater and refrigerator vents with RV vent insect screens, and note them on a tag on the steering wheel or door so you remove anything that blocks an exhaust before use.
Set mouse traps and check them on each visit.
Close blinds and roof vents (or fit vent covers that let the vent stay cracked for airflow).
Put moisture absorbers (desiccant tubs) inside, and leave cabinets and drawers slightly open.
Clean the interior and remove bedding and towels, or store them in sealed bins.

5. Covers and storage type

Wash the RV and inspect roof seams, sealant and window seals. Fix leaks before storage, not after.
In an uncovered space, use a breathable RV cover sized for your RV type. Avoid plastic tarps: they trap moisture and can scuff the finish in wind.
Pad sharp corners, gutters and ladders before covering, and strap the cover so it can't flap.
Consider covered or indoor storage if you get heavy snow, hail or strong sun. Compare posted prices on our RV storage cost page.
Retract slide-outs and awnings, and make sure the awning is dry before rolling it up.

6. Security

Trailers: fit a hitch coupler lock (or a king pin lock on a fifth wheel).
Add a wheel lock or boot, especially on an open lot.
Take valuables, documents, spare keys and electronics home.
Photograph the exterior, interior and serial or VIN numbers so you have a record.
Tell your insurer the RV is in storage and ask what coverage applies while it's parked.
Ask the facility about gate access, cameras, lighting and on-site staff. Our city pages list the security features each operator publishes.

7. Engine, propane and generator

Motorhomes and generators: fill the fuel tank, add fuel stabilizer, and run the engine and generator long enough to circulate it.
Change the engine oil and filter if it's due, so used oil doesn't sit all winter.
Check the engine coolant's freeze protection.
Turn off the propane at the tanks and cover the regulator. Some facilities have rules about stored propane, so ask.

8. Before you leave the lot

All appliances and the main breaker off; unplug from shore power unless a maintainer is connected.
Windows, roof vents, doors and storage compartments closed and locked.
A note inside listing everything to undo in spring (vent screens, bypass valve, battery disconnect).
A reminder in your calendar to visit and check on the RV.

In spring

Reverse the list: remove vent screens and covers, reconnect and charge the batteries, flush the antifreeze out with fresh water, take the water heater out of bypass and fill it before turning it on, sanitize the fresh water system, check tire pressure and look for leaks or pest damage before your first trip.